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History of climbing Annapurna

History of climbing Annapurna

Annapurna is the first eight-thousander to the top of which a successful ascent was made in 1950 by a small team of the French.

The original goal of the French climbers was to climb Dhaulagiri, which they saw from the Gorepani pass. The approach to Dhaulagiri was conceived by them from Martha. Guides from Martha took them to the pass, now it bears the name French Pass – French Pass, in memory of those times. Dhaulagiri looked intimi

dating from this point. Maurice Erzog decided to look for an approach to another eight-thousander – Annapurna. During the ascent, Maurice Erzog received such severe frostbite on his hands that all his fingers were amputated. The first ascent of Annapurna was made from the north. The base camp from the north is practically inaccessible to trackers without special mountain equipment. The trail to the northern BC starts from Lethe.

In 1960, a team of the strongest mountaineers from England, led by Chris Bonington, made the first wall ascent in the history of mountaineering to the Himalayan eight thousandnmk – Annapurna main. One of the members of the Bonington expedition saw the Yeti here. On the way to the base camp, there are indeed large monkeys with black muzzles and white fur. The trek to Annapurna Base Camp today leads the trekker to the exact spot where Bonington Base Camp was located. Above the loggias (hotels) there are chortens – memorial buildings in honor of the fallen climbers. The largest of them is dedicated to our compatriot Anatoly Bukreev, who died in an avalanche on the southern slopes of Annapurna in December 1997.

All routes from the south are technically difficult, accessible only to the most advanced climbers. The route from the north is technically simple, but extremely avalanche dangerous. In the area of ​​the southern camp there is a trekking Tent Peak 5600 m. The first ascent was made by Jimmy Roberts, the founder of the trekking industry in Nepal. From the Annapurna base camp, at sunrise, Machapuchare, one of the symbols of the Nepalese Himalayas, is visible in all its glory.